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    Volume 4 Issue 21 | Archive Index

    SARS BITES DEEP INTO HONG KONG SNAKE RESTAURANTS REUTERS,

    SARS Bites Deep Into Hong Kong Snake Restaurants 
    Reuters, 1/21/04 
    HONG KONG - Opposite a writhing mass of snakes in a glass tank, Kam Oi-ho
    stirred a steaming pot of snake soup and filled a bowl for his first
    customer of the day. 
    Chinese people think eating snakes is good for you, especially in winter
    when the meat is believed to keep you warm. But not this year. 
    "Our business has plunged 70 to 80 percent since the SARS outbreak last
    year," Kam said, as he looked around his near empty stall, which also
    sports bottles of wine containing snakes and their innards. 
    "The recent scare in Guangzhou has slashed business by another 40 percent
    in the past few weeks," he said. 
    China has confirmed three new cases of Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome in
    recent weeks in the southern province of Guangdong, where the disease first
    emerged in late 2002 before spreading to more than 30 countries. 
    The virus eventually infected about 8,000 people and killed nearly 800 of
    them, including 299 in Hong Kong. 
    Snake lovers used to have their fill in small Hong Kong stalls like Kam's,
    where snakes are sometimes killed and skinned next to your table. There
    were even special snake banquets, where every part was used and cooked in
    different ways. 
    The mild-tasting meat is firmer than fish but often more tender than
    chicken. The organs of the animals, most of which are caught in the wild in
    Southeast Asia, are touted as having all sorts of benefits. 
    But experts believe the SARS virus jumped from animals to humans. Prime
    suspect is the civet cat, also served up as a delicacy, and even though
    snakes have never figured on the list of possible SARS sources, diners are
    taking no chances. 
    "Since the SARS outbreak last year, I feel wild animals are disgusting. I
    haven't had any snake soup since," said Betty Chan, a company executive. 
    On the walls of Kam's shop, one of Hong Kong's oldest and best-known, aging
    newspaper clippings are proof that business was brisk in the past. 
    "In the peak winter season, we used to sell 300 to 500 bowls of snake soup
    a day. Now we sell maybe only about 100 bowls," said Kam, whose "Snake King
    Yuen" stall also supplies snake meat to large restaurants. 
    "Out of every 100 restaurants that used to serve snake soup or dishes, only
    10 are still doing so," he said, as he drew a wriggling serpent from a
    container and headed to the slaughter room. 
    "We keep only 50 snakes in this stall, compared with more than 1,000 in the
    past," Kam said, as he slit a snake lengthwise with a knife, removing its
    skin and plucking out the organs. 
    "There are about 100 snake stalls in Hong Kong. I think about half of them
    will have to fold soon," he said. 
    Yip Kwok-leung, who runs the Snake King Leung eatery, agreed. 
    "This is the worst time in my 20-odd years in this trade. Our customers
    have fallen by half since the last SARS outbreak and I think the trade will
    get more difficult in the future." 
    But snake meat still has some fans. 
    "There are so many animals that are said to be bad to eat. Can we possibly
    avoid all of them?" said Peter Leung as he waited for his order. 
    "I live far away but I had to come here for snake soup because many others
    have shut down," he said.
    Posted 2004-01-24